rv.family.reno
- Jun 8, 2022
- 5 min read

Keystone Fuzion Toyhauler Master Bedroom to Bunk Room Conversion and Renovation

Of all the transformations I have done, this one is for sure the biggest layout change and most shocking before and after! We bought this Keystone Fuzion Toyhauler with big dreams to renovate it into our forever (okay not forever, maybe 5 year haha) RV. The toyhauler had a main bedroom at the front of the rig (pictured below on the left) and then a garage space in the back of the rig that has a happijack bed lift with a bed that lifts and lowers from the ceiling.

We didn't feel comfortable putting our kids in the garage, mainly because there is an exit door in that room, so we decided to convert the main bedroom into the bunk room and convert the garage into our room!

BEFORE AFTER

I've never renovated JUST one room at a time, so this honestly went so much quicker than usual. Here is what I did.

I started with demolition and veery quickly we realized that the entire slide floor was rotted through from extensive water damage and needed to be replaced. I have a highlight on my Instagram that explains in detail how we repaired the water damage.

WATER DAMAGE FIXED FLOOR

Once that was repaired, I built a wall to close off the second entry to the bathroom. We really didn't need this second entry, and closing it off allowed us to build the bottom bunk bed all the way to the left of the slide, so that we got more floor space! I closed this wall off by framing out the door way and then covering it up with a sheet of shiplap paneling that I got from Home Depot.

ORIGINAL 2nd ENTRY CLOSED WALL

Then it was time to paint! I sanded all the cabinetry first using my mouse sander with 80 grit sand paper. If you are new to sanding, start with 120 grit. These RV cabinet boxes are laminate, so you can damage them easily if you sand too much. The doors are almost always real wood! Then I cleaned the entire room with a shop vac, wiped everything down with a vinegar and water mixture, vacuumed, and cleaned again!

Then I pulled down all the lights and outlet covers, and taped everything off. Windows, outlets, everything!

Then I primed the entire room (ceiling and cabinetry included) with STIX primer using my Graco True Coat 360 spray gun. I then painted the final color on, and I started with the build in. This accent color was going to take up a smaller area than the white, so I did that first which made it easier for me to just tape it off when it came time to paint the white. I used the color Normandy by Benjamin Moore in Scuff X Satin finish.

Finally it was time to paint! I painted the entire room and ceiling with Benjamin Moore's Steam in Scuff X Satin finish. This is the perfect and most durable paint and works great in all areas, especially the kids room that needs a little more clean up!

ORIGINAL STIX PRIMER NORMANDY

Next up was flooring. I have been using Shaw Matrix line in the last few renovations and I love this flooring so much. It's only 3.2mm thick (meaning it works great with slides and is lighter in weight than a thicker flooring) and is very easy to install. This flooring is in their style Toffee Elm.

Now for the big job: Building out the Bunk Beds. I didn't know how this was going to work, because I have never done anything like this before. It ended up working AMAZINGLY. I am going to give you the measurements below, the links to the screws at the bottom of this blog post, and suggest you check out my Instagram Highlight called "Toyhauler Bunk" to see more building details.

TOP BUNK: This is a queen size slide, meaning it was only 60 inches wide. Meaning that it would not fit the length of a twin size mattress (left to right). My 2 year old is going to sleep on top, so we decided that it would make more sense for us to put him on a toddler mattress up there, so that we could run the bed left to right in the slide and free up headspace. One day we may turn his bed to face out like the bottom bunk, but for now this works better for us. The top platform is 60"x 30" which fit the toddler mattress we got that was 52"x 28". This left a little space on the left and right side near the window (see final picture below) which ensure that no condensation soaked into the mattress. We used 1x4s in pine to build the frame and made sure to screw the frame into the metal framing of the slide. There is also metal framing around the windows that we made sure to screw into as well. The backs on the pine are also glued with wood glue to all walls. Two braces in the middle was enough for our size, but if you have a king size slide, you may need 3 braces in the middle.

BOTTOM BUNK: This was the challenging bed. This bed needs to be able to move with the slide, and I also had a vision to incorporate storage underneath. I started by using stain grade paneling to build the box at the bottom of the bed. Then we mounted that box on 2 caster wheels and screw it into the face frame of the slide. Then we we built the frame from there, making sure to screw into the metal studs of the wall. We added a leg at the end on the left side for support and also put that on a caster wheel. Not pictured here is the addition of bracing left to right from the box to the left side of the frame and all the way to the wall. This frame fits a narrow twin mattress, the mattress we got was from RV Mattress and is 32" x 74", so the frame was 34"x 75" to make sure it fit nicely.

We used ply wood cut to size, placed that on top of each bed frame and screw it to the frame, and then I painted the entire bunk.

I added some trim, a bunk rail, and decor such as a book shelf, night light, and Beddys. The blinds in the slide were actually the original blinds! And the blinds across from the bed are new and are linked below.